Lahore travel guide

Lahori chargha

An entire chicken marinated in yogurt and spices then deep-fried whole to a burnished golden bird; spiced aggressively with fenugreek, cumin and chili; invented in Lahore and impossible to replicate elsewhere; a surgical feast

Nihari

Lahore's most revered slow-cooked dish—beef shank or lamb simmered overnight in a spiced gravy thickened with whole wheat flour; traditionally a post-Fajr prayer breakfast of Old Lahore; the garnish of ginger, green chili and lime is essential

Paya

Beef or lamb trotters slow-boiled for 10-12 hours until the collagen creates a silky, unctuous broth; spiced with ginger, cardamom and turmeric then garnished with fried onions; quintessential old-city Lahore and deeply nourishing

Seekh kebab

Lahore's finest minced lamb keema mixed with onion, chili and coriander then pressed onto flat skewers and charcoal-grilled; Lahore's Fort Road Food Street grills them after dark with raita and chutney for the entire city's late diners

Falooda

Lahore's iconic dessert-drink—rose syrup, swollen basil seeds, thin vermicelli noodles, cold milk and a scoop of ice cream in a tall glass; cooling and sweet on a hot Punjab afternoon; essential after any Lahori lunch