Indore travel guide

Poha jalebi

Indore's legendary breakfast—flattened rice cooked with mustard seeds, turmeric and curry leaves alongside spirals of crispy jalebis dunked in sugar syrup; the contrast of savory and sweet defines Indore's morning food culture; eaten at Sarafa Bazaar

Garadu (yam fry)

Indore's winter street food specialty—purple yam (elephant foot yam) sliced and pan-fried with spiced chickpea powder, lime and chili; available only from October to February; sold by vendors pushing flat griddle carts through Indore's bazaars

Bhutte ka kees

Indore's unique street food—freshly grated corn cooked in milk with chili, lime, coconut and coriander; a recipe unique to Indore with no equivalent anywhere in India; found at every street stall in the commercial areas around Rajwada palace

Sabudana khichdi

Maharashtra and Madhya Pradesh's fasting food—tapioca pearls cooked with peanuts, green chili and lime; eaten during religious fasts on Ekadashi and Navaratri; though simple, the right balance of crunch, lime and cumin makes it extraordinary comfort food

Dal bafla

Bhopals variation on the bati—wheat dough balls boiled then baked in ghee, served with a rich five-lentil dal and churma; heavier and richer than Rajasthan's version due to the boiling step; a complete Madhya Pradesh meal experience

Shikanji

Delhi and Rajasthan's classic lemonade—fresh lime, cumin powder, black salt, ginger and mint in cold water; the black salt (kala namak) gives it a sulphurous tang that's completely addictive; a roadside essential in the heat of Indian summers