Travel Guide
Erbil travel guide
Capital of Iraqi Kurdistan, one of the world's oldest continuously inhabited cities. The ancient citadel rises above a modern, surprisingly safe city with distinct Kurdish culture.
Language
Kurdish, Arabic, English increasing
Currency
IQD
Timezone
AST (UTC+3)
Best time
Mar-May, Sep-Nov
Budget/day
$45-90
When to visit
Jan
2 to 12°C
Feb
3 to 14°C
Mar
8 to 19°C
Apr
13 to 26°C
May
19 to 33°C
Jun
24 to 39°C
Jul
27 to 42°C
Aug
27 to 42°C
Sep
22 to 38°C
Oct
16 to 30°C
Nov
9 to 20°C
Dec
4 to 13°C
Safety
Moderate RiskMuch safer than rest of Iraq. Kurdistan Regional Government controls area. Still check advisories.
Women travellers
Erbil (Kurdistan Region) is significantly safer than Baghdad and considered one of the safer cities in Iraq. Women can travel with considerably more freedom here but modest dress is still recommended. Check current advisories about surrounding border areas.
Culture & etiquette
- + The Kurdish people are proud of their distinct identity — show interest and respect
- + Try Kurdish dishes: dolma, masgouf, and kleicha cookies
- + Dress modestly near mosques but Ankawa (Christian area) is more relaxed
- + Carry USD or IQD — both widely accepted in Erbil
- - Do not equate Kurdistan with Arab Iraq — Kurds have distinct culture and language
- - Photography of military checkpoints (Peshmerga) is prohibited
- - Do not travel outside Erbil city limits without verified security information
Food to try
Kebab
Kurdish-style lamb skewers grilled fragrant over charcoal at restaurants below Erbil Citadel; the distinctive tomato-sumac raw onion salsa alongside is Kurdish-specific and not found in the same form elsewhere in Iraq
Dolma
Iraq's most elaborate stuffed vegetable dish—vine leaves, peppers, tomatoes and onions all stuffed simultaneously with spiced rice and meat; slow-cooked in sour pomegranate broth; a labor of love at family celebrations
Kurdish bread
Thick charred flatbread baked directly on the sides of a tanour clay oven; used to scoop everything, torn to wrap kebab and passed at every meal; Erbil bazaar's bread bakers work from 5am and sell out by noon
Tapsi (baked dishes)
Layered Iraqi baked casseroles of lamb, eggplant and tomatoes slow-cooked in clay pots until the eggplant melts into the meat juices; a Kurdish Erbil restaurant specialty served from communal terra-cotta vessels
Kurdish tea
Strong black tea brewed in double-layered samovars, served in small fluted glasses with multiple cubes of sugar; drinking tea looking over Erbil Citadel from the hill-top cafés is one of Iraq's great small pleasures
Hidden gems
Details are indicative and may change. Verify visa, safety, and entry requirements before travel.
